It was lunchtime at Levenshulme station when I realised this first footballing Saturday following the death of George Best would be an extraordinary one indeed. The silence on Platform Two was broken by an high-pitched voice chanting 'Red Army', and seconds later a child of nine or so emerged from the stairwell accompanied by his father. Both wore football scarves- the traditional 'bar' style,with no lettering disfiguring the red, white, and black stripes- and an unmistakeable sense of Saturday afternoon purpose. I sidled over to make enquiries as to the kick-off time, and in the process revealed this was my first visit of the season to watch 'this lot'. The dad shot me a conspirational glance:
'Oh, you'll enjoy it', he said. 'You'll enjoy it, all right'.
The father-and-son matching scarves were in the colours of Manchester United, but the 13:03 train was not bound for the Theatre of Dreams but for a more modest venue: Stockport County's Edgeley Park, where FC United of Manchester- the club formed by militant United fans in protest at the hostile takeover of their club by the American tycoon and baseball club owner Malcolm Glazer-were due to play their 'away' fixture versus Cheadle Town in the Second Division of the North West Counties League.
The term 'away' is used here advisedly. The fixture was originally scheduled to take place at Cheadle's tiny ground, but, in common with most of FC United's away fixtures this season, has had to be moved to a larger venue in order to accommodate the visitors' phenomenal support; in a league where average crowds struggle to reach triple figures, 'FC' are regularly arriving accompanied by upwards of 2000 travelling supporters. Backwater footballing towns like Leek and Winsford have never seen the like; this afternoon it will be Stockport's turn to witness what is already being called 'Punk Football'.
After a short train ride and a couple of refreshment stops I find myself at the turnstiles- or rather, about forty yards from them. There are just five minutes till kick-off, but the queue of red-and-white clad humanity is stretched right around the residential block skirting Edgeley Park. It's pay-on-the-turnstile, you see, just like the old days- except, it is already apparent, without so much of that old-fashioned nastiness. As three-o-clock approaches with the queue showing no great signs of shortening there is none of the anger, pushing and shoving, and sudden intervention of police horses veterans of the terrace era will associate with such moments- just a good-humoured impatience to get in and join the massed ranks inside. Sure enough, our good humour is rewarded with good sense on the part of the Edgeley Park staff-as I am clinking through turnstile 19, a supervisor appears to instruct the operator 'never mind tickets, son- just get seven quid of each of them and get them in!'
It's supposedly all-seater in the Cheadle End, but as I climb the steps all are standing to carry out the one minute of applause for George Best, and nobody sits down when it finishes. I find a place high up behind the goal, just on the edge of a tightly-packed row. A harassed steward in a day-glo jacket moves among us, parading up and down the slither of yellow concrete that remains of the walkway. 'Keep this area clear, now. No standing on the pathway', he intones. Nobody takes a blind bit of notice. Eventually the young functionary dissappears, muttering darkly to himself- something about it never being like this when Sale Sharks are in town, I fondly imagine. Down below us, a football match has sprung into action.
On the terrace the play is being followed, of course- but without, at this early stage, the kick-by-kick intensity- all plaintive, individual shouts of 'come off it. linesman!', and 'Man On!'- that you will find at a league game. The truth is everybody is too busy singing to get worked up in an unseemly manner over the odd misplaced pass. And make no mistake, the variety of songs on offer here more than makes up for the occasional lack of quality on the pitch. Within twenty minutes I take part in more terrace ditties than in the last five seasons of sitting in sometimes libraryesque Premiership stands. There are old time numbers- including, of course an anthem to the departed Best- and Old Trafford favourites of a more recent vintage, including one which, as a Newcastle fan, I pointedly don't join in with, as it extols the comparitive value for money offered by Ole Gunnar Solksjaer over one-time United transfer target Alan Shearer. But the numbers belted out with most gusto of all are a whole raft of newly-composed protest songs targeting the hated Glazer regime.
It's not just the American tycoon who comes in for some stick, though. Among ditties making unflattering comparison between the facial features of the new chairman and those of a garden gnome, the massed ranks of the Cheadle find time to make the surprising claim that FC's rather, er, uncomplicated centre-back is 'better than Rio', and also to show a healthy lack of respect for that one-time socialist firebrand turned corporate apologist Sir Alex Ferguson. Notably, that pre-season jibe in which Fergie said fans may as well 'go watch Chelsea' as follow this upstart, no-hope rabble of a Fan's team is remembered with no little glee.
Oh, and the football: I had nearly forgotten. Cheadle, who earlier in the season came out of a cup-tie between the teams on the wrong end of a 5-1 hiding, score first through Lindon, but find themselves 2-1 behind by the break courtesy of strikes by Torpey and Carden. They keep plugging away, though, and to the obvious astonishment of their fifty-strong support huddled together for warmth in the main stand, find themselves 3-2 up with just five minutes remaining- Brain and Martin having upended the scoreboard with a well-worked strike apiece. It seems this will be the end of matters- until the visitors are awarded a late, and slightly contentious, penalty.
The outstanding FC performer of the day, a subistute winger named Paterson, steps forward to take- a trifle too confidently for my liking. As he waits for the protests of the Cheadle players to subside, the fellow is actually playing keepy-uppy with the ball on the penalty spot. I seem to recall the young Ryan Giggs putting on a similar exhibition prior to missing a vital shoot-out kick against Southampton in the cup, and express fears of a repeat. 'Oh, this guy's more like Cantona', says the bloke behind me. 'Never misses.' Sure enough, he does- smashing the twelve-yarder off the inside of the post and back into play.
Surely now, it seems FC are set for only their second defeat of this barnstorming first season- but we are not finished yet. As the first signs of anxiety start to creep across the away end (and not before time, we are in the ninety-third minute now) a far-post cross is nodded exultantly home by Chadwick (no, not that one) triggering scenes of mass jubilation; it may be the North Western Counties League in 2005 but it could be a balmy, balmy summer's night in Barcelona six years ago for all these lot seem to care. As we move towards the exits a song goes up that seems to sum it all up (you will recognise the tune):
'We Hate Blackpool Mechanics, we Hate Cheadle Town Too (and Flixton). We Hate Manchester City, but United We Love You'.
And it really does seem, as we stream back out into the tightly-packed Edgeley sidestreets, that FC United of Manchester is beginning to mean as much to these displaced Stretford Enders as the original footballing love of their lives ever did. This impression is confirmed afterwards in the Armoury (I've had to go for a post-match pint just to calm down), when I get talking to a couple of them. Andy from Heaton Moor is a Stockport fan who had been dragged along by his mate Tim from Didsbury, a Old Trafford season-ticket holder of fifteen years's standing. Tim says he won't buy official United merchandise- or pay for the likes of MUTV- any more, and the only thing stopping him giving up the season ticket altogether is 'the emotional connection'. Other fans- especially those who never had season tickets to start with- have deserted Old Trafford altogther in favour of following the 'Fans' Team'.
And don't think it's all down to Glazer, either- the gnome-lookalike's takeover may have been the catalyst for the FC phenomenon, but Tim is typical when he talks of tickets at £50 a shot to get into Stamford Bridge, and the exhorbitant contract demands of the errant Ferdinand as issues which first caused him to question a lifetime of unswerving loyalty to the Old Trafford cause. There is more here than meets the eye.
Myself, I have no troublesome matters of historical allegiance to wrestle with- at least until my team, Newcastle United, forms a Punk Football Fan's Club to rival this one in ambition. Today, I'm just a football fan who came for a day out and found himself transported to some alternative universe- a sort of joyful, hooligan-free version of the 1980s, before seats, Sky and sponsor-friendly sanitisation started to suck the last remaining drops of fun from the Saturday afternoon footballing experience.
Remember fun? Something tells me I may be back for more of it- and that regardless of the outcome of the Old Trafford power-struggle, so will thousands of disenfranchised football supporters like me. FC United of Manchester play home games at Bury's Gigg Lane every fortnight, and on alternate Saturdays, travel to footballing outposts the length and breadth of the North-West and Midlands. People of Flixton, Blackpool, or Glossop, be prepared: punk football- and some rather uncomplimentary songs about Rio Ferdinand- are coming your way soon.
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